I recently came across a very interesting document called ‘Account of materials furnished for the use of Anne Boleyn and Princess Elizabeth 1535-36’. This is an itemised account, presented by William Lok, a mercer most employed by Queen Anne Boleyn (Ives, Pg. 217).
This bill covers the period from 20 January-27 April 1536 and includes items of dress for Queen Anne and the Princess Elizabeth, with a few articles for the court jester, Will Sommers.
Anne Boleyn - Six Wives display Sudeley Castle
The bill provides a wonderfully detailed account of Anne’s expenditure on costume for herself and Elizabeth during this three-month period.
Ives states that the total of ‘£124 15s. 2d., disagrees with the equivalent figure in the list of debts, £123 10s. 6d’ but might be explained by the fact that the end of the bill is missing and so its possible that a deduction was made that we are unaware of (Pg. 397). He also mentions that the bill contains errors but doesn’t go into any details as to what these errors are.
What I find fascinating about the account is that it paints a clear picture of the kinds of luxurious gowns that Anne wore and had made for her daughter. The notes at the end of the account are helpful when it comes to reading the account and defining some of the terms used.
Read the full account here.
Eric Ives in ‘The Life and Death of Anne Boleyn’ mentions some of the gowns:
This [the account] tells of Anne buying gowns in tawny velvet with black lambs’ fur, in velvet without fur, in damask, and in satin furred with miniver; a russet gown in caffa (heavy silk), two in black velvet, one in black damask, one in white satin and a second with crimson sleeves; a gown in purple cloth of gold lined with silver, and new carnation satin from Bruges to insert into the sleeves of a gown of tissue. There were eight nightgowns, two embroidered and another in russet trimmed with miniver; and three cloaks – of black Bruges satin, of embroidered tawny satin and of black cloth lined with black sarcenet – while Arnold the shoemaker had eight lots of black velvet to make shoes and slippers. Thirteen kirtles included white satin and white damask, black velvet embroidered and crimson satin ‘printed’, with matching sleeves. (Pg. 252)
As far as I am aware, no one has ever illustrated Anne’s gowns. How I would love someone to do so!
Princess Elizabeth aged about 13 years
As for Elizabeth, who upon her death is said to have had 2,000 costumes, in the three-month period reflected in the account she was supplied with
‘a gown of orange velvet, kirtles of russet velvet, of yellow satin, of white damask and of green satin, embroidered purple satin sleeves, a black muffler, white ribbon, Venice ribbon, a russet damask bedspread, a taffeta cap covered with a caul of gold.’ (Ives, Pg. 253)
It is clear that Elizabeth inherited her sense of fashion from her mother.
Apart from being Anne’s mercer, William also ran errands for Anne during trips to the Low Countries.
William’s daughter would later recall how ‘Queen Anne Boleyn that was mother to our late Queen Elizabeth caused him to get her the gospels and epistles written in parchment in French, together with the psalms.’ (Ives. Pg. 273)
In a strange twist of fate, William Lok would later be called upon to help clear the Tower of London of foreigners before Anne’s execution (Ives, Pg. 217).
References
Ives, E. The Life and Death of Anne Boleyn, 2004. Account of materials furnished for the use of Anne Boleyn and Princess Elizabeth 1535-36. Learn more about William Lok here.
I think this is wonderful! I have always been interested in Ann’e clothes. If we could figure out what some of the materials looked like back then it would be fairly easy to illustrate since we know mostly of what her gowns looked like. (If we can trust the paintings)
What would fatten furryd be? Extra thick fur?
I also wonder why Ives does not backup his statement that there were/are errors. Seems odd that if you are going to make such a statement and you have the proof you would show that proof. (Excuse the researcher in me)
Thank you so very much for sharing this!!! (I love you!!!) 🙂
You are most welcome Cindy! I have a feeling that the errors he is referring to have to do with the cost, as he does say that it doesn’t match the debt listed in the state papers. I am looking into other documents pertaining to Anne’s accounts and debts that she owed at the time of her death so will keep you posted. Please someone illustrate these! 🙂
I have some blonde lamb’s fur. Its gorgeous. Not quite a “fur” nor is it a wool. Once I’ve finished this last assignment I’ll try to have a hunt for it when I am reorganising my sewing room. And may have a shot at drawing up designs for Anne’s gowns. However, my 1535 green gown is as close as we will get to the kind of gown Anne would have worn.
That would be wonderful Bess! Love your green gown, I would love to own one one day. Something to save up for 🙂
Or you could make it yourself!! I use to have several of the style Anne would have worn (being is a medieval organization) but have gained too mauch weight to wear them any longer. I have since gone to early- mid Elizabethan style. I cannot make them exactly as they did (with all the bodice stiffness) because I have some health issues but they look just as good.
Great info, Natalie–I love your idea of an illustrated book of their gowns–wouldn’t that be wonderful! There is a book about Elizabeth’s gowns but I don’t know if it’s illustrated and I can’t recall the title right now–I know it was taken for her Book of the Queen’s Dresses which Lady Mary Shelton kept–Mary’s record is the basis for the book which is quite expensive I think. I’m writing book 2 aobut Mary. Thanks again!
You are welcome Anne! I wish I had the skill to take on such a task but alas, I don’t! Hope the writing is going well 🙂
There is a book Oueen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked. There is a second book to that one too I think it pertains more to under clothes tho
It use to cost over $1000 a few years ago but I see that Amazon has it at $180.
http://www.amazon.com/Queen-Elizabeths-Wardrobe-Unlockd-Arnold/dp/0901286206
I have the Tudor Tailor. It is ok but I would not puchase it again if I knew it really was not all that great.
Yes, I have heard of that book but it’s quite expensive. Would love to find it in a second hand store someday! I also own the Tudor Tailor but I would love a book dedicated only to Anne’s wardrobe and the fashion during her reign.
The book is one that I do not think many are going to willingly let go of. 🙂
$180 in not bad compared to $1000.
Many researchers use it because of the information. I have not seen it but I have several friends who have it and have talked about the extensive information it gives.
Maybe some day when I have extra money and don’t know what to do with said money I will buy it. 🙂
White satin with crimson sleeves sounds so striking! I too would love to see these illustrated.
I borrowed Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlocked through an interlibrary share program and it was fantastic!
Would love to own this book!