When did you first become interested in Tudor history and what do you think is the lure of this period?
I have to say that I hated school and was taken out and home educated from the age of 10, however one of my primary teachers really managed to bring history alive (whilst being wholly un-inspiring in all other subjects) and clearly loved the Tudor period. She definitely infected me with her enthusiasm.
Do you have a favourite Tudor personality?
Well I guess, like so many, I always found Anne Boleyn fascinating. Since I became a Tudor tailor though I’ve become very fond of Juan de Alcega, a Spanish tailor who published his pattern book in 1589 and to whom I am eternally grateful.
When did you realise that you wanted to make a career out of reconstructing historic dress?
I had been making costumes for myself and others as part of my involvement in the Tudor re-enactments at Kentwell Hall from the age of 13. When I was 17 and struggling to think of what to study at college my step-mother said ‘well what about costume?’ and it was a light-bulb over the head moment. I don’t know why it didn’t occur to me before she said it but once I had decided to study costume I knew that it was museum standard re-constructions for educational use that interested me rather than costumes for theatre, film or television.
What was the inspiration behind The Tudor Tailor?
Writing The Tudor Tailor came about after I had been making costumes for Jane Malcolm-Davies at Hampton Court for many years. We did a particularly large event in 2003 to commemorate the death of Elizabeth I in 1603. The event called for more than 40 late Elizabethan costume and they all had to be made from scratch in the space of four months. I decided to keep a visual diary of the process of researching and making these costumes and we displayed the diary at the palace as part of the event. The response from the visitors was amazing, people were just fascinated by it and we realised that if we had of had a book to sell them we would have done pretty well!
I imagine that there is a lot of research involved in making a historic costume. Could you tell us about the process you undertake when starting a new project.
There is always research to do for any costume, though if it is one from a period I have covered extensively (such as sixteenth century England) I only have to research the specifics of that costume. I try to find out as much as possible about the persona of the character who is to be represented by the clothes, their age, where they came from, whether they are likely to be living in an urban or rural environment and whether there are any surviving records which leave clues as to what they might have worn. I am constantly adding to my reference material by going through sixteenth century documentary evidence, looking at extant garments in museums and visual sources such as effigies in churches.
Do you work collaboratively with other specialists when reconstructing a costume?
Absolutely, I’ve always said that a Tudor tailor would likely laugh (or maybe cry) at my attempts to make an entire outfit by myself when they would have specialised in certain garments and techniques. I do know my limits though and rely on a range of highly skilled specialists such as shoe-makers, hatters, jewellers, embroiderers and even people who make hooks and eyes to complete my costumes.
I read that you took part in one of the annual recreations of Tudor life at Kentwell Hall. Could you tell us a little bit about what visitors might see at this event.
It’s pretty unique as the visitor enters the event at the front gates of the manor house and discovers an entire community of around 300 Tudors going about their business. The volunteers who take part assume roles ranging from swine-herds and market traders to farmers, artisans and members of the Gentry inhabiting the house itself. The ‘Tudors’ all remain resolutely in character which can be both magical and frustrating, if for example you want to ask the seamstresses where they really get their materials from!
When watching historical documentaries, films or television series do historical inaccuracies in costume representation annoy you?
I try not to be annoyed but can’t help it sometimes! I don’t mind if a production is intended to have an element of fiction or fantasy to it but it does really grate if a designer claims that the costumes are ‘authentic’ when they clearly are not. I find it’s best just to avoid watching many of them so as not to get upset!
Are you currently researching or writing any books?
Yes, Jane and I are working on the follow-up to The Tudor Tailor which will be called The Typical Tudor and focus’s on everyday and working dress. We are also working with other authors to bring out volumes on Early Tudor women’s dress, Scottish dress and the dress of babies and children.
Of all the research you have undertaken about Life in Tudor England, what is the most interesting or peculiar fact or custom you have come across?
The custom English people seem to have had of bricking up items of clothing in the walls of their houses as some kind of protection against evil is pretty peculiar, but I’m very glad they did it! See http://www.concealedgarments.org/
For more information on Ninya visit her official website here.
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